This took me longer than I thought but I made this drawer organizer out of walnut to set inside the kitchen drawer. 

I’m okay with that I think, need to put a gloss coat now. 

1st coat of making something maple look like something brown. 

In my Fuji spray gun I mixed precisely a bunch or walnut brown and a bunch of mahogany aniline dye powder in a bunch of clear water based polyurethane. Shook it up, sprayed a bit. 

Like my spray booth?  Tarps everywhere with a box fan covered with a furnace filter to blow the fumes outside.   Mind you, there wasn’t a lot of fumes since I was using water based poly.     

I decided it would be a great idea to try my first hand cut dovetails on an important project :).  No time for screw ups or do-overs here.  One shot.  

But first a change of plans.  I was going to leave the drawer front to include the bottom molding in a single unit that would slide in to fit the opening and top but I decided to make the bottom molding a fixed stile and the flat drawer face slides in the middle between the top and bottom moldings.   It seems more typical that way.  Retro fitting the bottom stile as an afterthought was tricky. 

Then I had to build the drawer frame. 

Next the hand cut dovetail drawer. 

I laid out my 7 degree tails. 

Then sawed to the scribe depth line. 

Then sawed out the waste. 

The chiseled the rest to fit. 

The pins went the same way.  

To sculpt the decorative profile on the top of the legs a router bit wouldn’t do so I tried using scratch stock to form the two outside beads.  It works pretty good, better than I thought especially on hard maple.   It’s literally a rounded shape filed on the edge of a piece of metal then clamped in place and scratched or pushed/dragged along to wood until you scrape away the wood.

When it bottoms out it stops cutting.

I got these brass decorative feet that go in the tips of the table legs to give it that Duncan Phyfe look. The inside shape and fit was really odd so I had to do a lot of shaping to get them to fit on.

I made my version of the crown stops available as an accessory for my mitre saw.  They were way too expensive so I made my own. 

I didn’t make them for holding crown moulding, I made them because I wanted to clamp things to the top like stops, left or right clamping (since I had only one clamp), and for holding smaller workpieces where the stock clamp wouldn’t reach. 

I made an improvement to my mitre saw. The clamp that comes with the saw is too far away from the blade and I sometimes have to cut small parts that won’t reach the clamp.

There’s no way I’m holding them with my hand so I made a platform that you can clamp on the top of the saw. I put T-tracks on the top so you can slide clamps in at different positions to hold the workpiece down safely.

The table also doubles as zero-clearance for the blade below and in back by the fence so it improves dust collection even more.

T-track dimensions compatible with Festool clamps:

I’ve decided to attach the skirt to the top using hidden pocket screws from underneath.